Table Mountain: through the eyes of an Adventure World traveller….
January 24, 2012Table Mountain is impossible to ignore. Towering over the City Bowl of Cape Town, like a protective mother, the mountain is the pride and joy of Capetonians. And rightly so. With the amazing Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens nestled in the foothills, the breathtaking views over Table Bay and Robben Island from the top, and the revolving cars of the Cableway, Table Mountain is a must for anyone who is lucky enough to find themselves in South Africa’s Mother City.
The mountain can be fickle however, which is how I found myself exhausted, drenched to the skin emptying what seemed like gallons of water from my hiking boots after a day climbing to the summit.
After a long flight from Sydney, I was ecstatic to find myself in Cape Town again. Two years prior, this city had been my first taste of South Africa, and I had loved it. The bustling restaurants and shops of the V&A Waterfront, the inspiring & sobering history of Robben Island and the quaint Cape Dutch architecture of the Winelands nearby had all conspired to ensure Cape Town had retained a special place in my heart. But the one thing that taunted me was Table Mountain.
Every day I tried to get to the top, and every day I found the Cableway closed. Too windy. Too cloudy. Too rainy. I was determined that this time I was going to make it to the top, and weather be damned!
It had looked promising the day before. Sapphire blue skies, and not a cloud in sight. But when I woke the next morning to find the tablecloth well and truly covering the mountain, I decided a little cloud and rain never hurt anyone and I wouldn’t let the mountain deny me once more.
Our guide, Jason, arrived for a chat and a coffee, and gave us a bit of a pep talk. “I think it will lift. Plus the weather is always different once you get round the other side.”
We set of from Kirstenbosch in light drizzle, with Jason pointing out the staggering variety of flora which grows in the shadow of the mountain. A tourist shuttle trundled past, the passengers staring at us like we were crazy to be wandering about in this weather. After a quick photo op with the national flower, the King Protea, we continued up along Smuts Track, named after South Africa’s 4th Prime Minister, who used to hike this trail even into his 80s. The track zig-zags its way up steep stone stairs through the gorge, where we could hear a chorus of frogs cheering us on as we climbed. “If you see any frogs let me know” Jason said “there’s one called a ghost frog, who’s impossible to spot because he camouflages himself so well against the mossy rocks of the gorge and is completely silent”.
The frog was the last thing on my mind as we reached the wooden ladders at the top of Skeleton Gorge. We climbed in silence as well, navigating the huge wooden rungs without looking back down the steep drop behind us. Once we emerged from the gorge we could see the views over False Bay just peeking through the cloud cover that had descended upon us. At least, surrounded by cloud as we were, we couldn’t see how much further we had to climb, and there was a lot of up.
Onward and upward we went, our goal now to reach MacClears Beacon at the summit, which marks the highest point on Table Mountain at 1080m above sea level. A cairn of rocks marks the summit, and we perched halfway up for a photo, shrouded in a cold mist which rolled across the top.
Our mission from here was to head to the Cableway across the top of the mountain, and catch it back down to where our car would be waiting to ferry us to the hotel, but as soon as we started along the wooden track which hugs the cliff face, the wind whipping in our faces made it a futile mission. “The Cableway will only close in 50km/hr winds.” Jason was still optimistic, but it was like walking through a blizzard. A quick call confirmed it. The Cableway was closed and we were hiking back down.
As we dropped below the top of the mountain into Platteklip Gorge, we found a small sheltered spot just beyond the track to have lunch. Trying to feed ourselves with fingers frozen by the wind, we gorged on the local delicacy, Snoek, feeling warmer with each bite. As we perched on our rocks, grateful to be out of the wind, a steady stream of tourists passed us on their way to the top, including one crazy guy who seemed to have decided to run up.
Meaning ‘flat rock’ in Afrikaans, Platteklip Gorge is anything but, with steep stone stairs descending through the narrowest of gorges. As we dropped down below the cloud cover, the welcome sight of our car, finally came into view, and the track finally emerged onto the roadway. We climbed dripping wet into the vehicle, happy to be back on flat ground.
Even Jason rated the hike as one of the most difficult he had done. “And you didn’t even complain!” he declared, impressed that we hadn’t once blamed him for the bad weather and freezing conditions in the middle of November. As we relaxed with a well earned beer back at the hotel, the mountain finally emerged from its cloud cover. Oh well. At least after so many attempts, I had made it to the top of Table Mountain.













